There are mountains you admire from a distance, and then there are mountains that make you pause, breathe differently, and feel something shift inside you. For me, Gornergrat is firmly in the second category.
Sitting high above Zermatt at 3,089 metres, Gornergrat offers one of the most breathtaking viewpoints in the entire Swiss Alps. Yet what makes it special isn’t just the altitude or the scenery — it’s the surprising mix of accessibility, stillness, and raw Alpine drama. One moment you’re in a charming village; the next, you’re surrounded by glaciers, wide-open sky, and a 360° panorama that feels surreal even when you’re standing in it.
This is my complete guide to Gornergrat — part personal reflection, part practical advice — written to help you experience this place in the most meaningful way.
The Ride That Sets the Tone: The Gornergrat Bahn
Your journey begins with the Gornergrat Railway, the highest open-air cogwheel train in Europe. The red train climbs steadily from Zermatt, passing through forests, meadows, and rocky slopes before entering the high Alpine world. The Matterhorn appears and disappears between turns, each time in a slightly new shape — sharper, steeper, more iconic.
It’s a short ride, about 33 minutes, but it prepares you emotionally for what’s coming. The higher you go, the quieter things become, and the more the mountains seem to open up around you.
At the Summit: A Balcony Above the Alps
Stepping off at Gornergrat feels like arriving on a natural balcony that overlooks an entire world of mountains. In front of you stands the Matterhorn, perfectly framed. To the east rises the Monte Rosa massif, the highest in Switzerland. Below, the Gorner Glacier winds through the valley like a river frozen in motion.
Even on days with other visitors, the view has a way of quieting you. It’s a landscape that doesn’t demand words; it asks you to stand still and take it in.
My Sunrise Moment: Why I Always Recommend Taking the First Train
A piece of advice I always share with travellers — and one that completely transformed my own experience — is to take the first train of the day.
When I visited with my family, we boarded the earliest departure, and to our surprise, there were only six of us at the summit station. Imagine having one of the most beautiful viewpoints in Switzerland almost entirely to yourself.
But the real magic happened a few minutes later.
As the sun began to rise, I watched the tip of the Matterhorn glow first — a tiny golden spark against the deep blue of the early morning sky. Slowly, the light travelled down the face of the mountain, revealing its shape in the softest, most beautiful way. It felt like the Alps were waking up right in front of us.
It’s a moment I’ll never forget, and one I hope everyone gets to experience once in their lifetime.
First train timing: The earliest Gornergrat Bahn departures are usually around 7:00 AM (varies slightly by season).
If sunrise is earlier than that, continue reading — there’s something even better.
Official Sunrise Experiences at Gornergrat
If you want to catch true sunrise at the summit or at Riffelsee, the Gornergrat Railway runs special sunrise tours on select mornings.
When they run:
According to Gornergrat’s official releases, sunrise rides typically run on Sundays from July to September, when light conditions are ideal and the lake is calm at dawn.
How it works:
- The train departs before dawn from Zermatt.
- Lights inside the carriage are dimmed so you can watch the world change colour outside.
- You first stop at Rotenboden, the closest station to Riffelsee.
- From there, a short walk takes you to the lake for the famous Matterhorn reflection — often at its best before crowds and wind arrive.
- After enjoying the sunrise, the train continues to the Gornergrat summit.
- There’s usually an option to include a sunrise breakfast at the 3100 Kulmhotel.
It’s one of the most special experiences Switzerland offers, and if your dates line up, it’s absolutely worth booking.
Hiking Trails I Recommend Around Gornergrat
Gornergrat isn’t just about the summit view — the trails around it are some of the most rewarding in the Alps and easily among the best hiking trails in the Swiss Alps. Here are the routes I personally enjoy and recommend:
1. Gornergrat → Riffelberg
Distance: ~6 km Time: 2 hours Difficulty: Easy–Moderate
A gentle descent with the Matterhorn in constant view. It’s one of the most scenic short hikes you can do — perfect if you want to soak in the landscape without much effort.
2. Riffelsee Lake (Important Tip: Get Off at Rotenboden!)
Distance: ~1.3 km Time: 30–40 minutes Difficulty: Easy
If you want the iconic Matterhorn reflection photo, this is your trail.
But here’s the key:
Get off at Rotenboden Station, not Riffelberg.
Rotenboden is only a 10–15 minute walk from the lake and is the closest, easiest access point. Many travellers miss this detail and take the wrong stop.
Go early, ideally at sunrise or shortly after. On calm mornings, the lake becomes a perfect mirror.
3. Gornergrat → Riffelalp
Distance: ~7.5 km Time: 2.5–3 hours Difficulty: Moderate
A trail that moves through different Alpine layers — rocky ridges, wide meadows, and peaceful forest paths lower down. It’s varied, photogenic, and satisfying.
4. The Five Lakes Trail (5-Seenweg)
Distance: 9.3 km Time: 2.5–3 hours Difficulty: Easy–Moderate
A favourite for good reason. Five lakes, each with its own colour and mood. Stellisee and Grindjisee are the highlights for Matterhorn reflections.
5. Hohtälli → Rote Nase Panorama Walk
Difficulty: Moderate–Challenging
Less crowded, wilder, and perfect for travellers who enjoy open terrain and glacier views. It gives you a deeper connection to the quiet, untouched side of the Alps.
Best Time to Visit Gornergrat
- Summer: Ideal for hiking. Clear skies and open trails.
- Autumn: Golden larches, crisp air, and beautiful photography conditions.
- Winter: Peaceful, snow-covered, dreamy landscapes.
- Spring: Quiet and reflective — often still sprinkled with snow.
Every season brings a different mood, but sunrise is magical year-round.
Why Gornergrat Feels Different Every Time
What stays with me about Gornergrat isn’t just the scenery — it’s the feeling it gives you.
A mix of silence, scale, and perspective.
When I think back to standing at the summit at sunrise with my family — just the six of us in that vast mountain world — I remember feeling grateful that places like this still exist. Places that remind you how beautiful the world can be when you slow down enough to see it.
If you’re planning a trip to Zermatt, give yourself the time to visit Gornergrat. Go early. Walk a trail. Watch the light change. Let the mountains speak in their own quiet way.
It’s an experience that stays with you.